Finding the Grey

May 1st is important in Turkey. For Turks, International Worker’s Day or May Day or Labour Day, carries importance far beyond the rights of unions and workers. ‘Bir Mayis’ represents a dark day in Turkish history where an unsolved massacre inspires Turks to not forget and to continue fighting in an ever-expanding globalized world.

On May 1, 1977, chaos erupted in the heart of Istanbul. Automatic gunfire rained down from surrounding rooftops into a worker’s rally in Taksim Square. Between 34 and 42 people(reports vary) were killed.

In the aftermath many blamed the right-wing Nationalist Front for conspiring with the CIA to temper a socialist movement. Others blamed leftist groups. 98 (seemingly random) individuals were eventually arrested but later acquitted. Further investigations were delayed and eventually the investigation was swept under the rug as a 20-year statute of limitations kicked in.

May 1, 2010 marked a small and somber victory for those determined to re-open the investigation and not forget. Taksim square was opened for May 1 demonstrations for the first time since 1977. In past years rioting and clashes between police and protesters were the norm. This year some 200,000 people took part in peaceful demonstrations.

Thanks for looking.

Jonathan

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As a foreigner living in Turkey the question “Have you been to Kapadokya yet?” tends to come up quite a bit. Kapadokya(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappadocia), a region in central Turkey that is hard to explain in words(come on I’m a photographer), is probably the second biggest tourist destination in Turkey, outside of Istanbul, and a place that Turks are ardently proud of. Such spots around the world, “Top Tourist Destinations”, usually put me at unease; trampling crowds(including me), tour buses, “authentic” kitsch, bland food and permeating monoculture just depress me. Through 9 months of living in Istanbul, just around the corner from one of the world’s greatest buildings, Hagia Sofia, I had yet to visit it. Sorry, I’m a travel snob and I know it.

So, I’d never visited Kapadokya either. Everyone I ever talked to about the place said it was “so amazing” and I “had to see it”. A trip was inevitable, I knew that, but I just kept putting it off due to my past experiences with places so amazing that I had to see…they tend to come with a lot of baggage.

Enter, a visit from my loving mother (my brother came along too but possesses an even stronger aversion than I to such destinations). I nicknamed my mother “the pigeon”, on a previous trip to Italy, for her unyielding ability to poke her head into the most touristy of shop windows. Three overnight bus tickets to Kapadokya please…

Well, my instincts were all wrong. Dead wrong. Maybe it was because it was October but we basically had the place to ourselves. I was expecting a few rock formations here and there with perimeter guard rails but in fact this vast valley is overgrown with a landscape that resembles the moon interwoven with local villages and modern buildings. The only eye sores were 50+ hot air balloons filling the dawn sky for an hour or so. We hiked through steep ravines, burrowed through long tunnels, climbed white rocks, gorged ourselves on delicious wild grapes, apples and tomatoes, peeked into dark cave dwellings and walked around giddy as can be repeating “wow, look at that” all day long. It really is so amazing and a place you have to see, twice.

Thanks for looking,

Jonathan

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Tear gas sucks and so does the IMF.

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Jonathan

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Some more images from life in Istanbul. I love living in this city.

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Jonathan

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Spent a few days in Istanbul with my new friends from Pakistan: Hafiz, Abdul and Atif.

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Jonathan

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My first few days in Turkey are going to be hard to top.

I traveled to the west coast for an annual camel wrestling event where camels, camel owners and fans descend upon Selçuk to watch male camels battle. The camels’ aggression at this time of year is heightened due to female camels being in heat. My understanding of the rules is far from complete but I witnessed a spectacle like no other. Massive animals, delicious smells coming from thousands of grills, rowdy fans, dancing, music and lots and lots of camel saliva.

Never have I been to an event with such hospitality and generosity. I was fed food and drink all day long, met hundreds of warm Turks wanting to know how I ended up in Selcuk for such an event and somehow was invited to an exclusive celebratory dinner by my friend Yusuf with the owners of the camels (think golf club type dinner) where I was the only foreigner in attendance.

All in all one of the best few days I have had while traveling.

Below are some photos from the day before and the day of the event. I am working on a multimedia piece that I will post shortly.

Thanks for looking.

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Multimedia (watch with sound)

If you like the multimedia piece, please vote for it at CurrentTV : http://current.com/items/89758519/camel_wrestling.htm