Finding the Grey

May 1st is important in Turkey. For Turks, International Worker’s Day or May Day or Labour Day, carries importance far beyond the rights of unions and workers. ‘Bir Mayis’ represents a dark day in Turkish history where an unsolved massacre inspires Turks to not forget and to continue fighting in an ever-expanding globalized world.

On May 1, 1977, chaos erupted in the heart of Istanbul. Automatic gunfire rained down from surrounding rooftops into a worker’s rally in Taksim Square. Between 34 and 42 people(reports vary) were killed.

In the aftermath many blamed the right-wing Nationalist Front for conspiring with the CIA to temper a socialist movement. Others blamed leftist groups. 98 (seemingly random) individuals were eventually arrested but later acquitted. Further investigations were delayed and eventually the investigation was swept under the rug as a 20-year statute of limitations kicked in.

May 1, 2010 marked a small and somber victory for those determined to re-open the investigation and not forget. Taksim square was opened for May 1 demonstrations for the first time since 1977. In past years rioting and clashes between police and protesters were the norm. This year some 200,000 people took part in peaceful demonstrations.

Thanks for looking.

Jonathan

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Going on 6 days without a shower and came across this guy and his shop in Quba…

…soviet clippers are surprisingly efficient…

…feeling a few kilos lighter and infinitely cleaner.

More to come from Azerbaijan soon.

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Jonathan

Tear gas sucks and so does the IMF.

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Jonathan

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Some more images from life in Istanbul. I love living in this city.

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Jonathan

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Municipal elections in Turkey concluded yesterday with around 93,000 local representative positions up for grabs around the country. Istanbul has been adorned (or maligned based on what party you support) with political posters, flags and banners for over a month with each political party vying for posts in every neighborhood, some that only stretch for a few blocks. When speaking with locals I hear a lot of groans and anticipation for “it” to be all over. Nobody will miss the political vans that race around the city blasting music at all hours.

As an outsider I find the election madness and all the flair endearing. Istanbul is a far cry from the identical lawn posters of the US. For the past month it would be rare to find consecutive buildings free of some sort of political propaganda. Wandering the city I couldn’t help but notice the political polish receding from faces as you crossed from affluent to poor neighborhoods. As election time neared and posters and flags aged, these politicians’ faces and logos litter the city and I wondered to myself… how weird would it be for your face to become litter all over a city?

Thanks for looking.

Jonathan

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A common scene in Istanbul is gypsy mothers with young children in tow begging for change. It can be a heartbreaking scene as you see them in the same concrete spot day after day, regardless of weather, for hours on end. Most often they are ignored.

The other day I came across this tiny girl all alone with no mother in sight playing in the gutter. At first she didn’t beg and just looked at me and  talked freely. With my limited Turkish I just kept saying “merhaba” (hello) and she would repeat it with her soft voice just staring at me. She had such a sweet disposition.

It was tough to walk away from her without looking back every 2 steps but I was certain she was being watched from afar.

Thanks for looking.

Jonathan

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A few nights ago Dilan Pirinç, 28, was murdered in my neighborhood of Cihangir. A suspect was reported to have entered Pirinç’s apartment and stabbed the victim to death. Pirinç happened to be transgender.

I came across a ceremony in front of Pirinç’s apartment yesterday where friends, press and ‘curious’ onlookers gathered. Some were there to bring attention to violence against transgenders in Istanbul. Some were there to mourn the loss of a friend. Some were there to join the crowd and get a look.

It was an emotional gathering that gave me mixed emotions. I must admit that at first arrival I was part of the ‘curious’ onlooker bunch and the photographer in me was thinking jackpot– a small street with 50 some odd transgenders, mourning. That initial photographer’s instinct is always there but with experience I’ve taught myself to stop, observe for a few minutes, feel what these people are feeling. Empathy can be an amazing guide.

Some transgenders were mixing with the crowd and consoling each other openly. Most seemed overcome with grief and fearful of being caught on camera and found retreat on some nearby steps. Despite the strong support for the LGBT community from all sorts of people I couldn’t help but notice the gap in the crowd. An apropos dichotomy considering recent events and the somber realization that the support on this little street wouldn’t be matched by larger populations.

Thanks for looking.

Jonathan

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So, I am in a photographic funk….which usually means that some facet of my life is in a funk. I’m funked up.

The rain has been relentless. I’ve been hibernating more than I normally prefer to and part of my soul has retracted into the comfort of my den. I think it shows in my photos. I’m not connecting with folk like I normally do as Turks are rushing this way and that, heads covered and angled down with their arms glued to their sides with somewhere oh so important to be: dry warmth. But I can’t blame them…they’re doing what they do. I’ve had opportunities where the rain has stopped, the light broke and for some reason I was attracted to walls and cats and people’s backs. WTF? Oh well, these times, they happen and spring is singing around the corner and I’ve already got tickets.

Thanks for looking.

Jonathan

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I think this is legit but it could be a counterfeit. Either way, I love this wall.

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Jonathan

Istanbul is now home and in the midst of many days of rain, apartment hunting and getting acquainted with the city and its people, I found some time to bring the camera out. I’ve avoided the tourist traps the best I could and am in full wander mode of Istanbul’s streets.

I can’t explain the thrill it is to be a resident of this bustling city. I am hopeful that this is the beginning of an important stage of my life and my work and I’m confident, after just a short time here, that I’ve put myself in a country and a city that will continually inspire me.

Thanks for looking

Jonathan

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